Gekonnt abhängen: Tulum in Mexiko

Tulum ist ein kleines Örtchen in Mexiko, das erst von Mayas, dann Spaniern, später Hippies und schließlich von Hipstern bevölkert wurde. Vor allem aber kommt Tulum dem perfekten Beach-Urlaub ziemlich nahe. Aber wie lange noch?

Gar nicht mal so einfach, sich in eine Hängematte zu legen. Am ersten Tag brauche ich drei Versuche, um das schwarze Netz so auseinander zu friemeln, bis es endlich genug Fläche bietet. Ein paar unbeholfene Verenkungen später, habe ich es mir gemütlich gemacht: im Paradies. Mit Blick auf die recht imposante Brandung des karibischen Meers, gekühlt von einer leichten Brise und einem Sol (mit Limette!), sind Deadlines, To-Do-Listen, und ungelesene E-Mails plötzlich nicht mehr existent. Mal kurz ins Meer, sich mit den Wellen messen, um ihnen die Kapitulation zu erklären. Zurück zur Hängematte. Strandspaziergang.

Und dann: Wow!

Der Strand ist eine Zehn-von-Zehn. Kilometerlang, Palmen gesäumt, keine Hotelbunker, nur kleine, zusammengezimmert wirkende Häuschen. Alles, ob Restaurant, Shop oder Bar, hat diesen einzigartigen Tulum-Style – ein Mix aus karibischer Verspieltheit und urbanem Industrial. Immer wieder fallen mir Details auf, Orchideen in einem verrosteten Emaille-Krug, verzweigte Wasserhähne aus alten Rohren, überall Hängematten, Daybeds, mehr Hängematten. Schnöde Liegen? Die Ausnahme. Beim Spaziergang passiere ich außerdem ein Yoga-Retreat, aus dem eine Horde nackter Frauen freudig-kreischend ins Meer rennt. Alle hundert Meter könnte ich mich massieren lassen. Sogar die Strandverkäufer haben keinen plumpen Schrott im Angebot, sondern coolen Hippie-Schmuck. Ich schaue einem nach, er ist von der Sonne gegerbt, seine Rastas wehen im Wind. Und denke nur: Du hast das getan, was sich in Tulum absolut richtig anfühlt – hier bleiben.

tulum_beach

Meine Bleibe für immerhin zwei Wochen ist das Coco Tulum. Ein Hotel, das sich eher nach Hipster-Camp anfühlt. Flip-Flops oder gar Schuhe braucht man nicht. Der Boden ist Sand. Man wohnt in rudimentären Cabanas, ohne Bad. Das teilt man sich mit den anderen Gästen. Bevor man es betritt, wäscht man die Füße mit Wasser, das aus einer Muschel kommt, drinnen ist es sauber und aus den Boxen ertönt guter House in beachtlicher Lautstärke. Alles sieht so aus, wie man sich selbst gerne einrichten würde, hätte man hier ein Domizil: Körbe ersetzen die Lampenschirme, die Beachbar hat Schaukeln statt Barhocker. Strom kommt von der hauseigenen Windkraft- und Solaranlage, „Eco Chic” eben.  Die Cabana-Nachbarn sind fast ausschließlich New Yorker. Wer kann ihnen verübeln, herzukommen, bei nur vier Stunden Flug. Von Deutschland aus sind es zwölf, man landet in Cancun, dann noch mal eine eineinhalbstündige Fahrt.

Natürlich ist mir klar, dass dies nicht wirklich Mexiko ist. Es fühlt sich eher wie der tropische Außenposten von Williamsburg an. Man begegnet eigentlich nur Hipstern. Das ist Fluch und Segen zugleich. Fluch, weil: immer mehr von diesem Ort wissen. Schließlich wird fleißig geposted und gehashtagt. Mittlerweile auch die „stock market kids”, reiche Banker-Kinder, wie mir ein verlotterter Aussteiger sorgenvoll erläutert. „In ein paar Jahren ist das hier wie Playa del Carmen.” Das liegt 60 Kilometer nördlich von Tulum, wurde immer mehr von Pauschalurlaubern gentrifiziert und ähnelt bereits Cancun, was wiederum der absolute Urlaubshorror ist. Mit Hotelburgen, wo Menschen in „I’M IN CANCUN BITCH”-Shirts herumspuken. Der Ballermann der USA. Warum also sind die Hipster-Horden auch ein Segen? Dank der Infrastruktur, die durch sie entstanden ist. Vor allem für Veganer.

tulum_foodEs gibt mehr Angebote, als in vielen deutschen Großstädten, vegane Alternativen sind Standard. Wer die fleischlastige Küche Mexikos kennt, weiß, wie außergewöhnlich das ist. Besonders hervorzuheben ist das komplett vegane Restaurare, das glücklicherweise nur wenige Gehminuten vom Coco entfernt ist. Die Lettuce Burritos zum Selbstrollen, Mushroom Ceviche, Mayan Curry – alles „amaaazing”, um es mit den Worten der Gäste wiederzugeben. Man sitzt im Dschungel, isst von rauem Ton-Geschirr und trinkt Mezcal aus kleinen Kokosnussschalen. Das ist der allgegenwärtige Agavenschnaps, der mit Limetten und Chili-Pulver kredenzt wird. Ab und an kommt die hinreißende Kellnerin Aina (eine Aussteigerin aus Barcelona) mit einem stark qualmenden Eimer voller Copal um die Ecke. Ein Baumharz, das nach Weihrauch riecht und die Mücken vertreibt. Im schummrigen Spiel aus Kerzenlicht und den Schatten der Vegetation hat diese Zeremonie etwas sehr mystisches, sie wird auch in den anderen Urwald-Restaurants abgehalten. Weitere kulinarische Verpflichtungen sind das Gitano und das Casa Jaguar, dort ist donnerstags ab 22 Uhr übrigens Party angesagt.

Wer feiern will, sollte zusätzlich samstags ins Papaya Playa Project. Die angesagtesten DJs der Welt geben sich hier die Plattenspieler-Nadel in die Hand, was daran liegt, dass die Macher vom Berliner „Kater Blau” zu den Betreibern gehören. Besser geht Beach-Party wohl nicht: Location, Leute, Sound, barfuß im Sand unter Palmen und Diskokugeln tanzen. Dann am Strand nach Hause spazieren, während sich dieses wunderschöne Fleckchen Erde der Sonne entgegendreht, die alles in ein milchiges Rosa-bis-Orange taucht.

Ach ja, eintauchen! Sollte man auch in das Meer bei Akumal, das man in einer halben Stunde mit dem Taxi erreicht. In der geschützten Bucht hat man beim Schnorcheln sozusagen die Garantie, Meeresschildkröten zu sehen. Schon nach einigen Metern grasen die tiefenentspannten Tiere unter mir – anschließend gesellen sie sich zum Luftholen an meine Seite. Dazu sehe ich Rochen und etwas weiter draußen finde ich mich in Schwärmen tropischer Fische wieder, die in erstaunlich intakten Korallengärten leben. Auf dem Rückweg erzählt mir Miguel, mein Taxifahrer, noch von einem anderen Schnorchelspot, den ich unbedingt besuchen muss. Der allerdings liegt im Landesinnern.

Nachdem wir von der Autobahn in den Dschungel abbiegen, fahren wir 20 Minuten auf unwegsamen Schotterpisten zur „Pet Cemetary Cenote”. Cenoten sind überall an der Riviera Maya verteilt: Unterirdische Höhlen, mit Süßwasser gefüllt, die durch den Einsturz ihrer Kalksteindecke zu dicht bewachsenen Urwald-Pools wurden. Die ersten Taucher, die dieses magische Reich erkundeten, fanden viele Tierskelette, deshalb der gruselige Name. Das Innere der Cenote ist alles andere als furchterregend. Im angenehm kühlen Wasser treiben wir unter gewaltigen Stalaktit-Formationen dahin, in den Ritzen hängen Fledermäuse. Eine Erfahrung, die man nirgends sonst auf der Welt machen kann.

holistika2Ein weiterer Ausflug führt mich an die Ruine des Maya-Tempels von Tulum. Es ist der einzige direkt am Meer. Da nicht besonders weit, fährt man natürlich lässig mit dem Beach-Bike hin. Leider wird die Canucun-Meute ebenfalls angekarrt – busweise. Prädikat: sehr überlaufen. Aber sollte man mal gesehen haben. Und dann weiß ich auch wieder, was ich an Tulum und den Leuten dort habe. Außerdem gelangt man per Fahrrad vom Strand in 20 Minuten nach Tulum-Stadt, wo es weniger hip zugeht. Vor allem während ich durch die Nebenstraßen radle, sehe ich das authentische Mexiko, mit bunten Straßenzügen, vielen Stromkabeln und kleinen Märkten, wo wirklich nur spanisch gesprochen wird. Am westlichen Ende wird es gar nonkonformistisch, im Holistika. Eine Art Aussteiger-Dorf, mit cremeweißen Hütten in Hügel-Architektur und Pfaden, die von Baumhäusern voller Hippies und Botschaften wie „this a long peaceful road” gesäumt werden. Der ganzheitliche Ansatz wird von einem veganen Restaurant und Yoga-Klassen komplettiert, man kann sich für Retreats einquartieren und es ist regelmäßiger Austragungsort des Tulum Vegan Fests.

Solch unkonventionelle Locations gibt es noch einige in Tulum. Und ihre Einzigartigkeit und ihr Spirit ist es auch, die einen hoffen lassen: Vielleicht haben sich ja doch schon genug anders denkende, entspannte Leute hier angesiedelt, um die Cancunisierung Tulums abzuwenden. Vielleicht können sie die Hotelburgen samt schnöden Liegen fernhalten – und die Hängematten dürfen bleiben. Nicht zuletzt, da ich mittlerweile äußerst gekonnt in ihnen Platz nehmen kann.

Infos

Flüge gibt es z.B. mit Condor ab ca. 550 Euro von Frankfurt aus.

Direkt am Strand „Eco Chic” wohnen: „Beach Zone” Cabanas im Coco Tulum, ab 160 Euro pro Nacht.

In einem ganzheitlich-ausgelegten Yoga-Dschungel-Dorf wohnen: Holistika, Nacht pro Person ab 200 Euro.

Das Tulum Vegan Fest findet in regelmäßigen Abständen statt, Termine: tulumveganfest.com

Text & Bilder Georg Wittmann

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