That That Laut – vegan in Myanmar

Ein veganes ‚Dasein’ scheint in einem Land wie Myanmar, in welchem das Wort ‚vegan’ im Wortschatz nicht einmal vorkommt, kaum denkbar. Jedoch bietet Myanmar mit seiner doch speziellen asiatischen Küche eine breite Palette an durchaus herausfordernden Kreationen an. Wir wollen uns aber nichts vormachen; einfach ist es nicht. In Myanmar wird öffentlicher gegessen. Alle Zutaten begegnen uns Aug in Aug auf der Straße, auf dem Markt, im Restaurant. Es geht um Koexistenz und Verständnis der lokalen Traditionen.

„That That Laut“ (gesprochen: Ta Ta Lo) bedeutet vegetarisch auf Burmesisch und das kommt dem Veganen am allernächsten; näher geht es nicht. Dennoch freit dieser Wunsch nicht davor, dass nicht doch Ei oder sogar Hühnchen mit auf dem servierten Teller landet, denn es ist, für den Burmesen, eine fremde Eigenart, auf alles Tierische beim Essen zu verzichten.

Der Burmese isst warm, viel und eigentlich immer. Eine großartige Nische bietet die Serviermentalität in Myanmar. Die verschiedenen Bestellungen, ob in einem Restaurant oder auf der Straße kommen meist in diversen separaten kleinen Schälchen, so dass alle zusammen, ohne Verdruss, an einem Tisch essen können und sich nicht in die Quere kommen. Reis ziert ein jedes Gericht – es ist die Basis.

Frisch gepresste Säfte versüßen jedes Gericht und jeden Augenblick und man will mehr von Papaya, Ananas, Bananen, Limetten oder Wassermelone in flüssig (alles saisonal). Avocadosaft ist ein Gaumenschmaus: Tipp – ohne Milch ordern, welche meist noch dazugemischt wird. Der lokale Grüne Tee ist ein Muss und wird leicht zu einer Sucht.

Mein perfekter Tag

Auf dem Weg zur Arbeit Frühstück im Shan State Noodle Place, Kyant Lane, Yankin Township; da gibt’s ‚Shan Noodles’ bestehend aus Knoblauch, Ingwer, frittiertem Tofu, Erdnüssen und feiner Sojasauce; kombiniert mit Sesam und dünnen Reisnudeln aus Shan State in einem Tomatencurry.

Zum Lunch (für den größeren Taler) Shan Yoe Yar / No. 169, Wa Dan Street, Yangon, Myanmar. Absolut zu empfehlen sind hier die pfannengerührten Gingkobohnen mit dem grünen Spargel und Gemüsesoße zusammen mit dem Möhren-Kartoffelmus (Tipp: Unbedingt drauf hinweisen, den geraspelten Fisch wegzulassen). Gekrönt wird das Ganze mit der Gemüsesuppe (saisonal).

Es ist immer warm; die Verdauung läuft durch die Hitze richtig gut und somit hat man immer einen triftigen Grund zu essen. Snacks wie ‚Sar Ka Kla Kyaw’ – gebackenes weißes Bohnenpulver als Sticks und Chips, sowie in Knoblauch gedünstete Erdnüsse sind ständige Begleiter.

Zum Dinner kann man sich ohne groß nachzudenken an den Inya See in das Zephyr / Inya Road begeben. Eine relativ große vegetarische Karte bietet auch einige „versteckte“ vegane Köstlichkeiten wie ‚Tofu Vegetable’ mit herrlich frittiertem Tofu, Blumenkohl, Schoten, Möhren und Pilzen wie auch in Öl geschwenktem, geröstetem Mais. Tipp: davor, dazu, danach warme Cashew Nuts mit Meersalz. In diesem Sinne, TaTa! (Tschüss auf Burmesisch).


Zum Nachkochen: Mohinga Suppe

Wer es nicht bis nach Myanmar schafft, aber die Küche gerne ausprobieren will, kann das Nationalgericht Mohinga nachkochen. Traditionell wird es mit Fisch zubereitet, aber auf wo-der-pfeffer-waechst.de haben Heike und Julia ein Rezept für die vegane Variante bereitgestellt. Bananenblüten und Yamswurzeln sind Teil einiger Mohinga-Rezepte. Aber auch ohne diese beiden hierzulande exotischen Zutaten schmeckt die Suppe sehr köstlich. Reisnudeln hingegen gehören unbedingt dazu. Zum Rezept.

 

Reisebericht Tina Walinda

Bild & Headerbild Wo-der-Pfeffer-wächst.de

 

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