Was Fair Fashion Labels besser machen können 

Faire und umweltbewusste Labels werden außerhalb unserer „grünen Blase“ oft nicht wahrgenommen. Woran liegt das und was können sie besser machen? Ein Beitrag von Noveaux-Chefredakteurin Julia Akra-Laurien 

Wer suchet, der findet: In konventionellen Fashion- und Lifestylemagazinen taucht tatsächlich ab und an ein faires und nachhaltig produziertes Kleidungsstück in den Mode-Strecken oder Produktempfehlungen auf. Meist stammt es von den eher größeren Playern der Fair Fashion Branche, wie z.B. Hessnatur. Das ist natürlich ein Klassiker, den die meisten von uns sofort präsent haben, wenn das Stichwort „Ökomode“ fällt, auch wenn sie ansonsten eher weniger damit zu tun haben. Noch vor zwei Jahren allerdings war das Bild, welches sich mit diesem Unternehmen verband, ein deutlich anderes. Denn bevor 2015 die Designerin Tanja Hellmuth als Kreativchefin verpflichtet wurde, verkörperte es genau den Öko-Look, für den sich Brancheninterne fremdschämen und den sie sich gern wegwünschen.

Vermutlich ist es genau dieses eine Kleidungsstück in der Modestrecke eines konventionellen Magazins, welches den „Quoten-Öko“ gibt. Darauf wird dann auch weniger Mühe verwendet. Woran aber mag das liegen?

Als Chefredakteurin eines Fair Fashion Magazins habe ich einen ziemlich umfassenden Überblick, was die Branche so hergibt. Vor allem auf der professionellen Seite – ich kenne fast alle Lookbooks, Agenturen, die Fair Fashion Labels vertreten, und viele Labels auch persönlich. Meines Erachtens ist genau das der Knackpunkt. Denn damit fängt es: Mit dem Material, welches der Presse zur Verfügung gestellt wird.

Freisteller, pleeeeease!

Es gibt Designer, die haben tolle Schnitte und qualitativ hochwertige Kleidung, die zudem zu einem adäquaten Preis angeboten wird. Aber gute Freisteller? Fehlanzeige. In den meisten Fällen gibt es entweder keine – oder bestenfalls schlechte. Auf Nachfrage stellt sich oft heraus, dass die Fotos in Eigenregie geknipst und dann mit Photoshop ausgeschnitten wurden. Die Beleuchtung ist höchst unprofessionell, die Kleidung zerknittert. Diese Darstellung spiegelt in keiner Weise das hochwertige Fashionstück wider, welches abgebildet werden soll. Selbst wenn der Redakteur eines Magazins um die Qualität der abgebildeten Mode weiß, widerstrebt es ihm verständlicherweise, sich seine Magazinseite mit einem solch schlechten Foto zu ruinieren. Hinzu kommt, dass dieses Foto neben anderen, professionellen Freistellern gleich doppelt so schlecht wirkt. Und schwupps, ist das Teil von der sogenannten Legeseite wieder runter geflogen.

Legeseite

Information is King

Wunderschöne Bilder, tolle Styles – aber keine Informationen darüber, woraus die Klamotten bestehen und wie sie produziert wurden. Das hat für ein veganes Magazin natürlich größere Bedeutung als für ein konventionelles. Nichtsdestotrotz ist es aus meiner Sicht grundsätzlich wichtig, die verarbeiteten Materialien zu kennzeichnen. Andernfalls ist der/die RedakteurIn gezwungen, sich durch Lookbooks zu kämpfen, nachzufragen und steht schlussendlich doch vor der großen Enttäuschung: vier der sechs Teile enthalten Wolle oder Seide. Auch für andere Magazine ist diese Information wichtig – möglicherweise gibt es einen Artikel oder eine Strecke mit Fokus auf ein bestimmtes Material oder Siegel. Sind die Bestandteile beschrieben, landet das Kleid so womöglich – zack! – im „Hanfspecial“ oder ähnlichem. Auch Zertifizierungen, Siegel und deren Erklärung sind nie verkehrt.

Super Service 

Ein Punkt, bei dem es nicht viel zu meckern gibt. Das funktioniert durch die Bank weg sehr gut: Ob es sich um eine Anfrage nach einem Interview oder Bildern handelt, oder das Ordern von Samples für ein Shooting. Viele Labels schicken für die Bilder gleich Dropbox-Links, was natürlich super praktisch ist. So erhält man einen guten Überblick darüber, was es gibt und womit sich gut arbeiten lässt.

Mehrwert zeigen

Fair Fashion Labels bieten einen enormen Mehrwert gegenüber konventioneller Kleidung: bessere Materialien, bessere Verarbeitung, individuelle Stücke – und im besten Fall ein gute Story. Lisa Jaspers von Folkdays setzt zum Beispiel ganz klar auf Storytelling und fährt gut damit. Zu jedem gekauften Stück bekommt der Kunde eine Geschichte gratis dazu geliefert. Fair Fashion ist de facto besser als der ganze Wegwerf-Schrott – traut euch, seid selbstbewusst und erzählt es jedem!

Nur nicht negativ auffallen

Insgesamt ist es einfach wichtig, mit den zeitgenössischen Standards mitzuhalten und – wir können es schon selbst nicht mehr hören – aus der Öko-Ecke herauszukommen. Natürlich hat jeder seinen eigenen Stil, aber die Qualität muss stimmen. Wir wollen auch keine „lustigen“ Printshirts mit niedlichen Mustern. Das Ergebnis darf nicht sofort als „ökig“ identifizierbar sein und muss den Zeitgeist widerspiegeln. Einen kritischen Artikel dazu gab es bei Dandy Diary: Fair Trade Labels – muss Weltrettung wirklich so scheiße aussehen?. Ganz so schlimm ist es glücklicherweise nicht mehr, wie auch unser eigener Magazininhalt beweist. Labels wie Jan ’n June, Philomena Zanetti, Luxaa und viele mehr können definitiv mithalten. Man muss sie nur noch entdecken.

Im Zeitalter der Aufklärung 

„Raus aus der Öko-Ecke“ war auch der Konsens eines Live-Talks in der Blogfabrik in Berlin, der am 24. Februar 2017 im Auftrag des Bundesministeriums für Wirtschaftliche Zusammenarbeit und Entwicklung (BMZ) von Plastic Media organisiert wurde, im Rahmen der Aufklärungskampagne Vero&Selvie. Die zwei Hauptprotagonistinnen, Designerin Vero und Näherin Selvie, sind beauftragt, mit Hilfe der Kampagne Aufmerksamkeit für faire und grüne Mode zu schaffen. Lieferketten, Siegel, Produktionsbedingungen, Materialgewinnung, Verarbeitung – das alles muss deutlich transparenter werden. Dem Trend- und Konsumwahn muss etwas entgegengesetzt werden – mehr Bewusstsein, mehr Wertschätzung, mehr Kritik.

vero-selvie

 

Vero&Selvie sollen Fair Fashion zur Selbstverständlichkeit in unseren Kleiderschränken werden lassen – ein hehres Ziel, und nur mittels intensiver Aufklärung zu erreichen. Dafür geben wir alle unser Bestes.

Bei Viertel/Vor gibt es übrigens eine komplette Zusammenfassung des Abends und einen Live-Mitschitt zum Nachhören.

https://unsplash.com/@magpole


Der Beitrag erscheint in Zusammenarbeit mit dem Bundesministeriums für Wirtschaftliche Zusammenarbeit und Entwicklung (BMZ).

Header Bild unsplash.com/@magpole

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  • WEll, that’s two strikes for me. I’m staunchly against the death penalty, logically, although I’d like to personally take out a few really horrible offenders but that’s emotion talking.The other strike is the part of the FISA bill that protects communications companies from being sued if they share personal info with the government. I feel much more strongly about this and I don’t understand his position on this one bit.

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  • “What will Israel do and who will bail it out?”I don’t know what Israel will do, but you know who will get stuck holding the shit end of the stick: the American citizens. As always.

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  • Très bon billet, qui exprime un certain sentiment de la France des… »invisibles » ou de la « majorité silencieuse »…Amicalement

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  • Hi Diane, thank God he is owning up to it, many men refuse to, like my first husband….. Good for him, he will get what he needs now because he is willing to do the work~ good for you for bringing it into the light, God bless you both!! Charl XX

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  • Seems like people are stirred up to vote for the patsy romney, no matter what. Seems that votes are split as lots won't vote for romney,lots will vote romey, lots will vote for RP, and others for independents. You think they are playing us like a fiddle so the outcome will be to their commie liking? Anyway, mccain is a traitor before allegations of voter fraud and if mccain knew about voter fraud and did not report it then that is another crime owned by mctraitor.

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  • Thanks for your comment Nadine, this was the larger point I was trying to make. The idea of the deficit model and how we then teach a child whom we perceive to be defi5a8cient as opposed to a child who is seen as competent. As Jane commented, it does make all the difference in how one then goes about teaching and what therapies one chooses. Unfortunately this was not something I understood when Emma was first diagnosed. I am grateful I have now embraced it and it has made a tremendous difference for all of us.

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  • baufinanzierung rechner
    August 13, 2017

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    August 13, 2017

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  • Very, very beautiful visit to church, DF! Love the wonderful painting, a little different style here today–terriffic! Especially loved these words:Smiles of recognition, a nodding acceptance as if to say – ‘Oh, it’s you!’ Volunteer women serving Christ better than those above them in Church.”

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  • Frank – 4 on your list really pissed me off. I was reared in Ohio in Cincinnati-Dayton corridor and my family is still there. The damn Secretary of State there will do anything for the Republican cause.

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  • Thanks a lot for this new info! What was the name of that restaurant? You wouldn’t happen to have pictures of Kate at the time she worked there, would you? Pictures or other documents are what I need to really show the truth.

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  • Did the Jonathan Ames letter come yet? I signed up in January and that i really definitely hope I didn’t skip it. Is there a way I can examine it if it did already come?

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  • Hang in there! I have been following the storm on the computer and was the first thing I checked this morning. First time I have been glad we weren’t there but we are worried and concerned as if we were.

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  • Hola, linda!!! Que ilu, siempre la primera!! Con respecto a tu pregunta, la salsa se hace muy rápidamente!. Cuando echamos la cucharadita de Maizena disuelta en agua, comienza a espesarse muy rápido, por lo que no es necesario esperar mucho para añadir la carne. Con dos o tres minutos es suficiente! Espero haber respondido a tu pregunta. Si no, me preguntas las veces que tu quieras, que para eso estamos!! Un besote enorme cargado de cariño y deseos de que tengas una semana 10,,, Cocotte.

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  • twerking
    August 14, 2017

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  • I don’t really know what this was about  -  a human interest story to break up the monotony of endless political stories.   His retarded disabled brother has value in his eyes…thats good.   He does not have much value in my eyes.  I didn’t know him or want to know him.   In my life my dogs have value in […]

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  • “What happens to all the people who burn through their unemployment benefits”With all the extensions, I wonder if we will allow anyone to exhaust their benefits. At least not while Nom still has a dollar to tax away from him. It is only fair.

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  • Hi and welcome! Yes, this blog is my baby….I have been writing for many years, but this particular incarnation is just since last year. Thank you for reading and commenting!@Lisa, Thank you for your kind words…my prayer in all that I share so deeply and personally is that by doing so I am liberating something in others, providing an opportunity to heal, too. We are all such complex, wonderful, messy creatures….and I love us humans.

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  • I love white and wear it all year, I guess I can since I live in Los Angeles, but when I was in New York winter white worked just as well. Love the pictures,Thanks for sharingFiroozeh

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  • During the late 1940's I and other high school kids had reasonably well paid summer jobs at the three large grain elevators near Amarillo TX. We were mostly emptying boxcars with mechanical mules and brooms. I recall some locals a hundred yards or so from the elevators sweeping up wheat spilled from the boxcars. Some farmers were doing so well that they put in landing strips and bought airplanes. I believe that most of the wheat was being shipped to Europe.

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  • twerking
    August 15, 2017

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  • twerking
    August 15, 2017

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  • anush often gets us to colour coordinate – hence the RED!!Uma- it was lovely seeing youchox- yes bondapalli was good- little fingers needs a younger audience than anush- will save it for aditi

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  • « Que le public soit bien plus coûteux que le privé à égalité de service rendu, tout le monde le sait, c’est une loi générale de l’économie »Remarquable, comment l’idéologie définit la « science » chez certaines personnes.

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    August 15, 2017

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  • twerking
    August 15, 2017

    We can not honestly say that we weren’t shocked and impressed by the sheer ingenuity of the Twerking Butt.|The staff at Scripps Ranch High School discussed a twerking incident involving students in a letter addressed to a college trustee.|

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  • twerking
    August 15, 2017

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    August 15, 2017

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    August 15, 2017

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  • I loved this post Lori! I agree with you 100%! I honestly feel that people who say they "can't cook" honestly haven't tried very much. Or they just think it's hard and therefore do not attempt it. Why heat up a frozen pasta dish that has been packaged for who knows how long, when you can make pasta very quickly and easily.I love the bamboo utensils you sent me! They are heaven and so much sturdier than all the others. 🙂

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  • Ooh I love afghan cookies! How fantastic that they were all made in-house, I wish they did that more in Sydney 🙁 I totally want my own personal cable car, how cool is that?!

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  • twerking
    August 16, 2017

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  • Muchísimas gracias por la mención, D. Rafael. Totalmente de acuerdo con usted en que la revista es un auténtico lujo, una virguería, que Aída,Óscar, Paco y Sue se han trabajado con éxito. Yo, si llego a conocer nietos, les contaré orgullosa que pude publicar en Delirio y lo digo muy, pero que muy en serio.Gracias a todos.

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  • What about what we hold sacred? Freedom of expression. Do we let our values just disintegrate slowly in a poison bath of cultural relativism. If Muslims, even moderates, are so offended by free speech then they should go somewhere where they won’t be offended. The same goes to Terry Jones.You can have values and convictions without a god or a holy book. I believe in free speech for better or for worse. Some clealy don’t

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  • These intimate glimpses into Ernie’s life makes me wish I had known him better. He is a great teacher, I’m sure that bag will contain some interesting things. I think a lot of what made him so good at it was that he genuinely cared about being a good teacher.

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  • “Halo Reach to his HDD, he noticed it weighed in at approximately 10,780 MB of data” Bull****! The standard Reach disc installed is 6.7Gb the new disc installed is 6.8Gb. A reliable source this is not…VN:F [1.9.17_1161](from 0 votes)

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  • The people demand solutions!Whether it’s a more powerful government, or a fourth equity line of credit, or just a bottle of booze and a crack rock, we the people want something that will take care of our problems NOW.Now, now, now!Anyone standing in the way is wrong, wrong, wrong!How many people fully transition from childhood to adulthood in a good way?

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  • SÃ¥ flink du er!!Den synges sÃ¥ og si hver kveld her!! Jeg sitter med sÃ¥ mange ideer til ting jeg vil lage, men tiden og kreftene strekker ikke helt til! Sukk….Ha en fin dag! Klem!

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  • Ik ben vroeger ook gedoopt hoor, maar doe er niks mee.Vroeger ging ik alleen met de Kerstmis en verder nooit.In ons oude dorp was dat prachtig…hier in lelystad vond ik het koud en kil.Dus ga nu helemaal nooit meer.Tja…ieder moet doen waar hij voor staat hoor…en kan je niet geloven als je niet naar de kerk gaat??Je Maria beeldje vind ik prachtig!!Ga maar lekker uitbuiken ;-)…mmmm lekker hoor Grieks!!Jij ook een fijne dag mogen.liefs Carla.

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  • « Lectures – Débats – LibationsVous serez tous bienvenus »Je suggère l’ordre inverse: Libations- Débats – Lectures.Au lieu de faire chier les auditeurs, ces lectures seront peut-être l’occasion de véritables découvertes.

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  • Simon Limbrick Posted on It’s such a shame that people like you come out with silly comments like this. Your opinion is entirely subjective (look it up) and bares no resemblance to the facts of near death research. You cannot deny that something extraordinary is occurring during these episodes and back it up with something more reliable as evidence-based. Before casting aspersions on others’ experiences, first have a constructive argument to make. By just giving your opinion, which is just based on ignorance, it makes you look rather silly.

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  • So miles driven are still down about 35 billion from three years ago. Wonder what gas prices were then? And I wonder what that's costing the states and fed in gasoline taxes?

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  • Beautiful photos. That dog fabric is adorable. Thanks for sharing how to make the clove mat. What a yummy and simple gift. I love the blue and white ticking of your pillow.

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    August 21, 2017

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    August 21, 2017

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    August 21, 2017

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  • And the winner of a copy of “Nothing but Scandal” is….Ashley Ludwig!Congrats, and Ashley, if you’ll email me at with the address you’d like me to send it to, I’ll get it in the mail.thanks, Mama Writers, for having me as a guest today!Allegra

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    August 22, 2017

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